Two English teachers invited me to an “open-air museum” in Chanovice, a small village about an hour from Plzen. Both teachers have been active in moving and restoring historical barns and houses to an open field in Chanovice, thus it is an open-air museum. The oldest barn dated back to the 1350s. While many people went to Chanovice for the weekend to restore these buildings, I was invited primarily to enjoy a Honey Festival.
Upon arrival at the festival, we met one of the teacher’s husband and son who were manning a walnut alcohol stand. They immediately handed me two shots of walnut alcohol and told me to drink them! It was around 11:30 AM. Knowing the people who helped establish this museum came with many perks, such as free entrance and samples of honey-related goods. My teacher’s entire family was in attendance, so I met the family babička's (grandmothers) and cousins. We ate Bramboraky (Czech potato pancakes/latkes), pastries, and honey samples. I also was able to buy an enormous jar of honey for the equivalent of six dollars. Many people I talked with explained different medicinal benefits of honey and how to properly put honey in your tea to gain all the benefits - the tea must not be too hot or too cold. Also, honey will help decrease seasonal allergies if you get honey made during the season you have the worst allergic reactions and from the region you live in.
In the CR, grocery stores sell honey, but manufactured honey it is not commonly bought. Typically, people get honey from people they know and trust – sometimes a relative, a friend, or a friend of a friend. I have noticed that there is an off-the-grid economy where people trade their goods for other goods or they just give their excess goods to friends and family. For example, a teacher at my school has four apple trees that were each very prosperous this year. Her family cannot eat all the apples so she gave me about two-dozen and she has given me two liters of homemade apple cider! She said that she has given about the same amount to each of the teachers. I also tutored a student in English and was given apples and homemade pickles in return. (Needless to say, I am eating a lot of apples!) Another teacher explained that this type of generosity, as well as buying honey and other products from friends is a characteristic left over from the socialist era, when many things could not be bought in stores and you had to know someone to get certain goods. Long story short, I will be eating a lot of apples with honey for the next month!
Back to the festival: In addition to eating, I received the grand tour of Chanovice and the museum. It started with a walk to a cabin at the edge of the forest and set back from the rest of the structures. This was supposed to be where a hunter lived, which makes sense to me because my fairytale stereotype of hunters are people a little recluse and away from the village who also need to be close to their work. Then we walked around the other barns until we reached the end of the museum and the beginning of the modern-day village. Here we went to a visitor center, a school, and ran into a fashion show! Nearby there is a high school specialized in fashion and art, so students were wearing their designs down a catwalk – equally exciting was the fact that I received free gingerbread for showing up! After my teacher-tour-guide-friend talked with the Chanovice’s mayor, we hiked up a forested hill to a lookout tower. All the leaves are changing colors, so there was a magnificent view and in the distance I could see the Šumava mountain range.
After returning to the festival, I rested and listened to a traditional band play, while my teacher-friend socialized with more of her family. People were drinking and dancing and enjoying the warm weather. There were about 550 people at the festival – mostly from Chanovice or connected to the construction of the museum. It was a great way to get out of my small city and enjoy the fresh air. Especially because there will not be many more sunny days (today it is raining)!
Before returning to Plzen, we stopped by the ruins of the largest Czech castle, the Rabi Castle. No Rabbis lived there though!!! It was mostly used by noblemen and as resting place along a trade route. The castle is dated back to the 14th century and is protected by a limestone hill. Due to the fact that the CR was part of many different historical empires, there are many castles and chateaus. I also went to the Kozel Castle (literally translated as goat castle), where there were many paintings of Maria Theresa, although, she never visited the castle. I am sure I will visit others, so this will not be the last you hear about places nobility lived long ago.
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